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Food Food & Drink

Twisted Combo

Rating: NNNNN


though i’m a sucker for oddball combos — Eric’s Kitchen’s (2222 Queen East, 416-693-2221) jerk chicken strudel, Vicky’s downright weird East-meets-West fish and chips, Scientologists Nicolas Cage and Lisa Marie Presley’s nuptials — I’ve managed to resist Hungary Thai (196 Augusta, at Baldwin, 416-595-6405). But last week I caved and survived its truly bizarre Schnitzel and Pad Thai Platter ($24.95). Billed as for two, this amply portioned endurance test can easily feed four. With leftovers. We start with cigar-sized spring rolls stuffed with conventional cabbage served over a heap of raw bean sprouts. A pool of white vinegar keeps things more Budapest than Bangkok. A large ceramic bowl holds an old-school cabbage roll — minced pork and rice stuffing — again sauced with a vinegary broth rather than tomato.

The third course comprises a lovely, thin-pounded, grease-free Weiner schnitzel sided with sweet homemade pickled beets and spuds sautéed with parsley on a bed of decorative cabbage (!).

You call this chicken pad thai? It sure looks like the real thing, but seems to be mostly bean sprouts in yellow gloop topped with more bean sprouts. Sour sambal can’t save these sad noodles. Say bye to Thai and hello, Hungary.

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