57 Adelaide East, at Toronto, 416-203-3093, and others, terroni.ca
Famous for its no-substitution rule, Cosimo Mammoliti's Old World trat does more than designer pizza. Sure, the thin-crusted pies are the stars of the rustic card, but dig deeper and you'll discover house-made primi ‘n' secondi - smoky grilled calamari, pappardelle with spicy sausage, slow-roasted pork shoulder - that would make anyone's nonna proud. Don't forget to send everything - except dessert, of course - into orbit with a healthy spoonful of hellishly hot house-pickled peppers.
Gio Rana's Really Really Nice Restaurant
1220 Queen East, 416-469-5225