107 King East, 416-603-8009, origintoronto.com
Everybody's going downmarket. Susur Lee's doing cheeseburgers in the Lounge, Splendido's gone cow-punk at the County General, and Mark McEwan has both a suburban grocery store and a TV reality show. Origin is Colborne Lane gastronaut Claudio Aprile's move into the mainstream, a great buzzing space with an accessible card that's best when he keeps it simple. And cheap. His $8 tostones and $5 devilled eggs are some of the tastiest things in the house. Aprile promises a second Origin - Origin North, no less - somewhere between here and Penetanguishene in the new year.
66 Wellington West, 416-364-0054, oliverbonacini.com/canoe