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Drinks Food & Drink

Osteria dei Ganzi

OSTERIA DEI GANZI 504 Jarvis, 647-348-6520, ganzi.ca, @GanziToronto


Slightly off the trodden TIFF track, Osteria dei Ganzi will throw a few bashes, but more importantly it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a more secluded sip during the upcoming whirlwind of glitzy festivities.

In a mansion built by George Gooderham in 1891 where, rumour has it, he entertained bootleggers like Al Capone, the surprisingly unostentatious Osteria rooms gleam with original hardwood and pop art portraits of Italian film icons.

The Ganzi’s “dolce vita” philosophy – relishing the momentary experience – extends not only to its authentic Italian kitchen but to its playful bar program as well.

Ganzi’s long marble bar is the domain of João Machado, a native of the Algarve in southern Portugal, and his refined style could trick you into thinking you’re seated at one of Europe’s best bars.

The printed cocktail list is supplemented by specials accessible to guests via Twitter and Instagram. Followers can request what’s posted or simply describe their ideal cocktail to Machado and receive a tailored tipple.

“My idea here is to personalize each drink,” he says. “I’d say 70 per cent of what we make isn’t actually on the list.”

Although rum, whisky, tequila and brandy also star in his cocktails, Machado’s admittedly a bit of a juniper fanatic.

When he first arrived in Toronto, he recalls heading to the LCBO in search of a celebratory bottle of his preferred spirit. He was shocked when confronted with a formidable wall of flavoured vodka dwarfing a minuscule gin selection.

“Gin is one of those spirits that doesn’t get respected as much as it should,” he said.

Not the case behind Machado’s bar. He customizes every gin and tonic with grapefruit, juniper berries, lychee or coriander, depending on the base brand.

Appreciation of subtleties is all in an evening’s work at Ganzi, where there’s plenty to meet the eye, but much more beneath the surface.

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 5 pm to close, brunch Sunday 9 am to 4 pm

Patio: Shaded by Campari umbrellas, it wraps around the building and seats up to 150.

Washrooms: In the basement.


Signature drink

Machado’s cocktails, poured from vintage silver teapots and served in gleaming goblets or cut glass, are a must-try. Request a Martinez, or try this twist on a Sazerac – mixed with gin, naturally.

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The Plymouth Sazerac ($12)

40 ml Plymouth Gin

10 ml Cointreau

1 camomile-infused sugar cube

2 dashes camomile tincture

2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters ($18.99, BYOB, 972 Queen West, byobto.com)

Stir ingredients and strain into a chilled rocks glass. Finish with an absinthe spritz and a twist of lemon.

drinks@nowtoronto.com | @s_parns

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