Holidays, New Year's, christening the toboggan - it's always the right time for bubbly.
WHAT: Pol Roger Brut Champagne Rating: NNNN
WHERE: Champagne, France
WHY: Brioche, toasty, bright fruit, concentrated citrus, long finish: the venerable house of Pol Roger delivers not only delightful depth of flavour but champagne's fiercely protected provenence and prestige to boot. Open this up at a party and it will be gone faster than you can say, "Watch out for that... cork!"
PRICE: 750 ml/$57
AVAILABILITY: At most Vintages outlets (product #51953)