THOROUGHBRED 304 Richmond West, 416-551-9221, tbto.ca
Richmond West hasn’t been a destination for nightlife since the three-tiered meat markets of the Entertainment District vaporized and the area became a sad construction zone where we sometimes see movies.
In the vodka-cran-soda haze of freshman year, I recall tripping down the street on my way to Fez Batik, Tonic, Lot 332 or some equally regrettable party, gazing at the blurry, beautiful old townhouses as I teetered by on stilettos, thinking, “Man, someone should do something awesome with those.”
Well, Ariel Coplan and Jacob Fox finally have with their new (and first) spot, Thoroughbred. Just under two months old, it’s already breathing new life into the ‘hood.
Fox describes the decor as a mix of organic and industrial. Wood meets metal in the narrow room’s low glow, resulting in clean lines – without forsaking comfort. Thoroughbred’s territory (43° 38′ N / 79° 23′ W) staked out in neon on the far wall feels more patriotic than a Canadian flag.
Come thirsty. There’s a list of tasty cocktails – try the Flipmode Appletini (bison grass vodka, manzana verde, verjus, “applès-garde” vermouth, bitters float, $14) or the Cadillac Chrome (blanco tequila, fresh pineapple, lime, passion fruit syrup, salted Campari, Hellfire Shrub, $14) – concocted by bar manager Brendan Schätti. The wine list curated by master somm Bruce Wallner is tight, intriguing and un-intimidating.
Chef Coplan’s menu is made up of twists on dishes that he and Fox grew up eating – Kung Pao cauliflower ($9), Sunchoke Bravas ($7) and buttermilk fried sweetbreads ($11). Many of the seasonal small plates are veg-friendly.
The second floor features an extended menu with more shareable options (Thoroughbred serves lunch as well) and there are parties on weekends (DJ Serious hosts Beat Junkie nights pn Fridays) so there are lots of reasons to drink, eat and repeat.
Tuesday to Friday 11:30 am to 2 pm and 5 pm to 2 am, Saturday 5 pm to 2 am. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Access up five stairs to the entrance, washrooms on main floor.
