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If the Rushton is the Drake of west Forest Hill, its 15-week old sister resto, Catch (744 St. Clair West, at Arlington, 416-658-0568, catchit.ca, rating: NNN ) is its Starfish.
Like Hoof Raw Bar, much of Catch's catch is sustainable, from a half-dozen Ocean Wise oysters à la mignonette ($18) to a 25-pound striped wild bass ($625 with four days' notice). Some flounder!
In comparison, ex-Bloom chef Nigel Finley's cured fish and meat plate ($16) is a whale of a deal, a primo mix of house-made duck prosciutto, headcheese terrine, smoked salmon and Portuguese chorizo sided with mussels, periwinkles and crisp zucchini fritti. Paired with a basket of chef's exceptional bread and a $10 glass of Prosecco, summer doesn't come much tastier.
Couple his grilled Arctic char over sculpted baby carrots and dandelion greens in a puddle of beetroot reduction ($18) with skinny frites flecked with thyme ($5) and get the best fish and chips this side of Garrison Creek. And, diet be damned, East Coast clam bake - a rich clarified fish stock riddled with fatty pork belly and Littleneck clams ($16) - calls for another basket of that fab bread.
Speaking of carbs, we've run into many a bread pudding as NOW's nabob of nosh, but never one quite like Catch's peanut butter and jam ($8). Strawberry shortcake meets Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, more like. But we'll gladly return for Finley's perfectly flaky butter tart ($6), a summery finish as classically Canadian as a Muskoka chair on some Algonquin dock.