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Food & Drink

Nunu

NUNU 1178 Queen W, at Northcote, 647-351-6868, nunuethiopian.com.


Ethiopian cuisine is one of extremes. Feast or famine, as it were.

If they’re not pigging out on meat – kifo steak tartare drenched in butter, garlicky tibs lashed with berbere hot sauce, spit-roasted camel – and lots of it, they’re making do with vibrant veggie stews, all eaten with scoops of slightly sour injera flatbread instead of conventional knives and forks.

Chef Nunu Ketgela’s veggie Misto Yesome tasting menu ($14 per person) is no different, a great shareable platter that’s perfect for that awkward first date. The inevitable beets arrive sweetly sauced, a mound of shiro wat split peas comes gently curried, and a heap o’ gommen wat collard greens provides cooling comfort. Fasolia green beans flecked with tomato and carrot add crunch, while azefa black lentils pack a mustardy punch. Exceptionally filling stuff.

But save room for Nunu’s trifle ($8), a Victorian confection of whipped cream, shortcake and sweet sherry that wouldn’t be out of place in a Downton Abbey drawing room.

Wednesday to Monday 5 pm to midnight. Closed Tuesday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement.

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