Get two patties in Toma Burger Addiction’s Monster.
What local chef doesn't dream of leaving a life of flipping burgers behind to cook in his or her own little boîte in the south of France? Thomas Sedille and Clémence Gossiaux have done the exact reverse.
Formerly of Le Reef near sunny Montpellier on the French Riviera, the couple have crossed the Atlantic to launch Toma Burger Addiction (712 Queen West, at Manning, 416-901-1027, toma-burgeraddiction.com, @Tomaburger, rating: NNN) on our wintry west side. Zut alors! Pourquoi?
"Canada is a good country, no?" says co-owner/chef Sedille.
No argument here. We also can't fault his Classic burger ($9.99), 6 ounces of hand-formed Angus prime rib dressed with Canadian cheddar, sautéed onion and tartar-like "secret" sauce, its traditional lettuce and tomato upgraded with arugula and dehydrated tomato carpaccio, all on an eggy housed-baked brioche-style bun. The Monster ($14.99) tastily ups the ante with two patties, four slices of cheddar, two rashers of double-smoked bacon and a splash of chipotle mayo.
Thrifty herbivores might find it difficult to cough up nearly 13 smackers for a veggie burger of roasted eggplant and zucchini, mozzarella di bufala, pesto chutney and alfalfa sprouts (The Lovely Garden, $12.99) but not if they think of it as a salad with a lot of free bread.
For another five bucks, those of the opposite bent can turn their Fabulous Las Vegas - 6 ounces of juicy wagyu beef (and not the Kobe listed on the menu) in truffled mayonnaise ($19.99) - into a Double Jackpot ($24.99) with the addition of a pan-seared lobe of foie gras. He even truffles his French fries ($6.99)!
We also give props to an inviting room that looks like some futuristic A&W instead of an Uxbridge farmhouse circa 1938. Only Sedille's generously portioned macaroni and cheese ($10.99) misses the mark, more cheesy Kraft Dinner than properly crusted gratin.