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Food Food & Drink

Buster Rhino’s opens in T.O.

Buster Rhino’s barbecue is so good, it was included in a recent NOW roundup of the city’s best, even though the closest outlets were in Whitby and Oshawa.

But Buster (838 College Street, at Ossington, 416-537-4343, busterrhinos.com, @BusterRhinosTO) has finally touched down in Toronto, in the old Phil’s on College. The interior looks pretty much the same (wood-panelled walls, a banquette spanning the left side of the room, tiled floor), but decor isn’t the focus here. It’s the sweet, sweet ‘cue. 

Sourcing locally whenever possible, Buster buys tortillas for the fried nachos ($10, plus $6 for meat toppings) at La Tortilleria bread for the sandwiches at Kensington’s Blackbird Baking Co. and beer from newly established Muddy York Brewing.

Desserts (all $6) come courtesy of the Sweet Escape Patisserie in the Distillery District, owned by Michelle Edgar, who’s also a co-owner of this Buster Rhino’s. 

Not surprisingly, meat is the main event, with dishes like $11 pulled pork sandwiches (the pork is smoked for 16 to 18 hours), deep-fried chicken breast sandwiches ($13) and ribs ($26 full rack, with side dish). 

Chain owner of Darryl Koster says smokiness is the key, and his isn’t from Southern nut trees like pecan but from maple, oak and cherry available in Canada. 

Smoke is a factor in the drinks, too, like the chipotle pineapple margarita ($10) with chipotle Tabasco, pineapple juice and mescal the smoked whisky sour ($10) with smoked lemon juice, Lot No. 40 Whisky, simple syrup and egg white and even the specialty Caesar, which gets spiced with habanero barbecue sauce. 

Toronto’s Buster Rhino’s is open from 11:30 am to 11 pm. See listing.

food@nowtoronto.com | @nowtoronto

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