CAMP (244 Jane, at Horshaw, 647-346-2267) Rating: NNNN
They don't come any kitschier than Camp (244 Jane, at Horshaw, 647-346-2267, Rating: NNNN), Megan Whiten's nearly year-old café in the wilds of Baby Point. That's the sleepy nabe too far west to be the Junction and too far north to be Bloor West Village. Walking its ungentrified streets, you'd swear it was still the Toronto of 1953.
Camp's something of a throwback, too, a family-friendly joint aimed at the stroller brigade instead of the cocktail crowd. There are Muskoka chairs out front, a lunch counter facing an open kitchen just inside the door and a few tables out back. A pair of water skis shares wall space with a cuckoo clock and a collection of Canadiana-inspired art.
Since Saturday morning is Friday night round here, we're lucky to snag the last of the room's 26 seats - and it's only just past 10. Soon, we're swizzling hot apple cider ($4) with cinnamon sticks and tucking into perfectly scrambled eggs sided with Italian-style sausage and retro scalloped potatoes spiked with sweet roasted peppers ($10.95).
"They're my mom's secret recipe," says Whiten.
Since her mother's celebrated sculptor Colette Whiten, that makes them not only scalloped but sculpted, to boot. Those same fabulous eggs - she steams them in an espresso machine like she used to do when she owned the Beaver on Queen West way back when - show up on grilled 'n' buttered ciabatta classically stacked with thinly sliced peameal, sharp cheddar and sadly winter-ripe tomatoes ($7.95).
Today's quiche ($9.95) turns out to be shredded brisket with caramelized onion and havarti, a mess o' mesclun in honeyed vinaigrette on the side. One last terrific gluten-free brownie - chocolate bar more like ($2.50) - and we're out the door less than an hour after we've arrived. Who knew Camp could be this much fun?