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Food Food & Drink

Cowbell doesn’t ring true

If you’re a fan of locavore chef Mark Cutrara’s snout-to-tail philosophy at Cowbell (1564 Queen West, at Sorauren, 416-849-1095, cowbellrestaurant.ca), you’re bound to be disappointed by his just-introduced Sunday brunch. He calls it accessible we call it middle-of-the-road.

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Instead of oeufs à la Hoof dressed with all manner of meaty exotica, we get Eggs Benedict ($12). Yes, Cutrara likely caught its trout topping with his own bare hands in a creek north of Coboconk before curing it in his grandmother’s basement, but it tastes like boring ol’ smoked salmon to us. Served in a cast iron skillet, a hash of Cutrara’s spicy chorizo, spuds, peppers and baked eggs ($10) appears to have been cooked in an oven set to extra-crunchy – great if your diet lacks carbon.

An homage to the Friendly Giant, the Rusty And Jerome ($17) features a little bit of everything – a TV tray of scrambled eggs, single-smoked bacon, under-baked beans, a waffle dressed with caramelized fruit and a sploosh of whipped cream – none of it particularly memorable other than a beefy slab of meat loaf in onion gravy. Order just the loaf as an open-faced sandwich ($12) on a buttermilk bun instead.

We raise our $4 beermosas to a missed opportunity.

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