CREPES A GOGO (18 Yorkville, at Yonge, 416-922-6765) Complete meals for $12 per person. Average main $7. Open Monday and Tuesday 12:30 to 7 pm, Wednesday to Sunday 10:30 am to 7 pm. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN Rating: NNN
When Veronique Perez announced that Crêpes à GoGo, the charming café on Bedford just north of Bloor, was closing down this fall because it was about to be levelled to become an apartment-hotel complex, some saw this as yet another sign of the ongoing destruction of downtown Toronto.
But that same seemingly unstoppable gentrification process has now given Crêpes a high-profile new home on the first floor of the luxury condo tower recently erected on the corner of Yorkville and Yonge.
The new tall, bright space retains much of the former's formidable charm. Dark panelling, art nouveau fixtures and walls crowded with black-and-white photographs of the Eiffel Tower and Deux Cheveaux give the room a timeless air.
Apropos, the accordion soundtrack to Amélie plays at a discreet volume, drowned out by the francophonic chatter from three small tables and a four-stool lunch counter.
As you would expect, crepes are the reason for going to à GoGo, two dozen different sweet and savoury types ranging from the house take on peanut-free Nutella ($5/$4.50 to go, tax included); the Quebecoise ($7/$6.50), with scrambled egg, mozzarella and maple syrup; and the signature Véronique ($6.50/$6) folded with Brie, sliced strawberry, wilted spinach and maple syrup. The Rive Droite ($10/$9.50), wrapped with exceptional smoked salmon, sour cream, dilled scrambled egg and spinach, is particularly tasty.
Made with barley and oats, the wheat-free crepes themselves are light and crisp, folded and served in wicker baskets and wrapped in paper to be eaten sans fork.
Both the Popeye (spinach, red onion, cremini) and less-than-classic niçoise salads (both $6/$4 side) work better with the house creamy vinaigrette than its sour balsamic soy dressing. But a glass of minty Limonona ($2.50/$2) quickly gets the pucker back.