Sometimes restaurants can't be labelled -- like these three, which mix many different culinary influences and styles.
RED TEA BOX (696 Queen West, at Euclid, 416-203-8882) A luxe home-decor boutique selling imported teas and pastries becomes downtown's most elegant spot for superb Japanese-Indian lunches, afternoon tea on the terrace or lounging in its breezy coach house. Warning: with only eight tables for two and no reservations taken, join the queue. Best: lacquered bento boxes laden with exotica-like red-pepper-wrapped shrimp, crisp green beans over caramelized red onions, lamb curry (or vegetarian cauliflower) and beautiful basmati rice layered with shiso leaf and tiny lotus root; Indo-spiced grilled chicken breast sandwich with onion marmalade on raisin-studded sour dough; cool red cherry borscht; intense chocolate brownies and apricot 'n' green tea frangiapane. Complete lunches for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and tea. Open Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 10 am to 6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday noon to 5 pm. Closed Tuesday and holidays. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, small washroom on same floor, four steps to terrace, and another four steps to coach house. Rating: NNNNN