Daddy-O's Milk Bar (221 Roncesvalles, at Wright, 416-534-0139) Complete lunches for $18 per person, including all taxes, tip and a 12-ounce milkshake. Average main $6. Winter hours: open Monday to Friday 8 am to 6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 6 pm. Unlicensed. Access: one step at the door. Rating: NNN Rating: NNN
Forget the kids. Daddy-o's is a place to indulge your own inner child. What's not to love about a 50s-diner-type café where shakes and sandwiches all have quirky names?
The Godfather panini ($5.50) prosciutto, provolone, grilled mushroom, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes is a tasty cliché. John Wayne ($4.95), my fave, features roast beef, roasted red peppers, Swiss and grilled onions, but needs more horseradish.
As for the Left Bank ($4.95), I didn't know they fished for tuna in the Seine, but this sure tastes like it came from an inner-city river, even piled with artichokes, black olives and mozzarella. Pair any sandwich or crepe with a huge garden salad for $7.25.
The soup of the day is roasted squash ($4.25), and we're happy they haven't killed the squashiness with too many carrots or spices, as many restos do. Avoid the Kensington crepe ($5.25) not-in-season, blanched-into-oblivion asparagus served on something that resembles an English muffin more than a delicate crepe.
The real reason to go? Dessert. The unconvincing Who's Your Daddy-O waffle ($6.95), served with unripe banana, dried-out brownie bits and Chapman's ice cream, needs chocolate syrup. But the Little Green Men From Mars ($3.65/12 ounce, $5/16 ounce) is a fantastic espresso shake with cookies, ice cream and mint syrup. Or try the Jack Keroauc, a sassy mix of banana, chai syrup, ice cream and apple cider the perfect to-go drink as you head back out on the road.