BIRYANI HOUSE (6 Roy's Square, at Yonge and Bloor, 416-927-9340) This hole in the wall has morphed into an almost classy boite dishing up some of the best Indian food south of the 401. And it's still dead cheap! Best: Sultaani Chaap lamb chops marinated in lemon juice with ginger and mint, then flambéed in rum; spinach, zucchini and onion free-form pakora fritters; hellfire Goan Beef Vindaloo with pickling spices, waxy potato cubes and whole red chilies. Complete dinners for $15 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Monday to Saturday 11 am to 9:30 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Licensed. Smoke-free. Access: three steps at door, small washrooms in basement.