CAFFE DORIA (1094 Yonge, at Roxborough, 416-920-5315) Complete meals for $28 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $10. Open Monday 8 am to 3 pm, Tuesday to Saturday 8 am to 9 pm, Sunday 9 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN Rating: NNN
Caffe Doria is a capable little neighbourhood restaurant where Rosedalians can stop in to partake of a well-chosen card of pizza, panini and salads.
Lunch leans toward takeout, but dinner actually feels like dinner in this small room that is warmed, literally, by the close-at-hand kitchen and its pizza oven.
What the pizza's crust may lack in yeasty charisma it compensates for by being rolled paper thin, yielding a delicate pie for one hungry person. Doria's combinations don't stray too far from tradition. The Margherita ($11) features generous mozzarella and a good herbed tomato sauce. Though it's heavy on the herbage, it could use more fresh basil as a topping. Otherwise, it's well executed and admirably simple.
With 11 salads on the menu, Doria's the place to make the scene with the green. The spring salad ($8.95) is a pungent plate of crisp arugala at this very un-springy time of year. Such a lively green might call for a calmer dressing than mustard, but a lot of people will enjoy the zip. Balancing the peppery qualities of the arugala is the balm of avocado.
The prosciutto bocconcini ($8.95) is a very Italianate offering that's more antipasto than salad but still gets things going very nicely, the salty edge of the meat playing off the bland cheese.
The Calabrese panini ($6.95), however, just sits there. Bread, meat, a little bit of greens, a piece of cheese. Yawn.
Things perk up again with dessert. You can choose from decent cakes like the creamy, nutty niccola ($4.95), cupcakes or Wanda's pies.