Rating: NNN
BAN VANIPHA (638 Dundas West, at Bellevue, 416-340-0491) Almost double its former size, this long-time Laotian and home-style Thai eatery has moved around the corner to high-profile digs just west of Chinatown. Pricier than similar spots, it delivers superior ingredients and style. Best: Mee Grob, addictive deep-fried rice vermicelli tossed with chicken, shrimp and toasted coconut in a tart tamarind-lime dressing Gai Hoey Bai Toey, garlic-marinated grilled chicken breast wrapped in pandan-leaf ribbons and sauced with soy, sesame oil and whiskey (!) Nham Vientiane, a salad of crispy spiced deep-fried coconut rice mixed with sour pork, coriander and mint Larb Hed, minced mushrooms, tofu, Thai chilies and rice powder in lime dressing and custardy crustless coconut pie riddled with pumpkin. Complete dinners for $30 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes and tip. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch 11:30 am to 3 pm, and for dinner 5 to 10 pm. Closed Sunday. Unlicensed. Smoke-free. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
