Rating: NNNNN
FOCACCIA (17 Hayden, at Yonge, 416-323-0179) This unassuming boite on a back street near Bloor and Yonge belies the culinary creativity found within. Chef Sam Gassira joins the pantheon of artistes — Patriot’s David Chrystian, Roxborough’s Elaina Asselin — who are shaking the foundations of Toronto’s old-guard dining scene. Best: osso buco with anchovy-spiked portobello gravy and crisp asparagus multi-mushroom risotto with a cornbread-dusted crown of calamari gazpacho unlike any you’ve ever tasted seared strip loin with spinach-potato gratin and Gorgonzola cream semi-sweet dark chocolate tart fabulous jalapeño-spiked cornbread and oregano-flecked soft breadsticks. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($25 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday noon to 3 pm, for dinner 5 to 10 pm Monday to Saturday. Closed Sunday and holidays. Fully licensed. Access: one step at door, 18 steps to washrooms on second floor. Rating: NNNNN
