SPRING ROLLS(687 Yonge, at Charles, 416-972-7655) This busy Thai/Szechwan/Vietnamese eatery takes its noodle noshes a step further than most of its competitors. Best: artfully presented and executed pho soups with better-than-Spadina ingredients; paper-thin smoked salmon and grilled chicken with capers and citrus-dressed greens; deep-fried tofu with asparagus in a somewhat spicy Szechwan sauce; a very good take on the often badly done pad thai; deep-fried bananas with green-tea ice cream; double-size Tiger pilsner from Singapore. Complete dinners for $25 per person ($18 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Open Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to midnight. Fully licensed. Access: one step at the very narrow door, washrooms upstairs.