Rating: NNN
IL BUN JI (668 Bloor West, at Manning, 416-534-7223) After its recent redecoration, this is Korea Town's most stylish eatery. While the menu is half Japanese -- sushi, tempura, teriyaki -- the Korean dishes deserve the most attention. To dine in one of the six semi-private rooms, reservations are required at lunch and dinner. Best: Dooboo Chigae, a fiery stew of pork, tofu and veggies; Hwe Yuk, garlic- and pine-nut-kicked steak tartare; barbecued Kalbi short-ribs; shrimp tempura. Complete dinners for $25 per person ($12 at lunch), including all taxes and tip. Open daily 11:30 am to 2 am. Fully licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on second floor. Rating: NNN
