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Never say never, especially in the resto biz. Cosimo Mammoliti's upmarket Terroni pizzerias famously refuse to cut their thin-crusted Neapolitan pies, though they provide you with a knife if you insist on doing it yourself. And don't bother asking if they sell slices!
But a few doors over from its original location, Terroni's month-old Sud Forno (716 Queen West, at Claremont, 416-504-7667, sudforno.com, rating: NNN) does exactly that, offering its rectangular Roman pizzas by the metre or the slice, the former in the $30 to $40 range once they finalize the pricing, the latter for as little as $3.50 a pop.
We'll be back for the basic focaccia-crusted Margherita with house ragu, mozzarella and fresh basil, as well as the Gorgonzola with sliced new potatoes. But as much as we adore the old-school porchetta with caramelized onion (the last two $4.50), we'd love it even more if the thinly shaved pork remained on the slice instead of ending up on the expensively tiled floor the moment they hand it to us. And if you're going to wrap pizza in paper, make it waxed so it doesn't glue itself to the toppings.
The stylish café's breads also find their way into newspaper-wrapped panini like the Sud Tirol ($8) with fruity fontina, rapini, breaded oyster mushrooms and exceptionally fatty pork jowl guanciale on ciabatta.
Breakfast doesn't get better than slices of hard-boiled egg with soft-boiled yolks, prosciutto and creamy friulano on a bun ($5). And while it may look like quiche, Rustico Italiano pie ($4) is really a dessert. Even though its eggy custard filling comes studded with great chunks of ham, its thin pâte brisée crust is as sweet as a lemon meringue tart's.