Rating: NNNNN
MATIGNON (51 St. Nicholas, 921-9226) A down-to-earth neighbourhood boite, this bistro serves hearty French fare that defies gastro trends. Check out the three-course $18.95 prix fixe dinner deal. Best: main-course fish soup with shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and salmon scented with saffron-tinged mayo, shaved Parmesan and garlic croutons; mussels steamed in white wine with a bowl of crisp frites; curried and pureed vegetable soup rich with cream and butter; triple-tier gateau layered with chestnut mousse. Complete meals for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, and for dinner Monday to Thursday 4:30 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 4:30 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Fully licensed. Access: six steps at door, washrooms on second floor. Rating: NNN BISTRO TOURNESOL (406 Dupont, 921-7766) Clamorous cafe serving up classic bistro fare with a contemporary twist from a seasonally changing, price-conscious $22 prix fixe menu. Regulars swear by the place, but neophytes might wonder what all the fuss is about. Regardless, don't even think of showing up without a reservation. Best: starters like mussels steamed in Chardonnay and herbs, or saged risotto cakes over mesclun topped with chevre; main course choices such as pork tenderloin cured in maple syrup, Provimi calf's liver with garlic mash and leeks, or chevre-stuffed chicken breast rolled in crushed pecans. Complete dinners for $45 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5:30 to 10 pm. Closed Monday. Fully licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN VERVEINE (1097 Queen East, 405-9906) Downtown comes to Leslieville. This mid-size bistro from the folks who created Mistral serves classic European cuisine with contemporary spin. A smart room, smooth service and a kitchen with potential make this neighbourhood noshery a hit. Friday/Saturday reservations recommended. Best: mussels steamed in mango butter garnished with slivered spring onion; maple-glazed chicken with grilled corn 'n' fresh fava succotash; Provimi veal-liver terrine; daily lunchtime $7 sandwich specials with first-rate frites; bratwurst and rosti sauced with caramelized onion jus at brunch. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($20 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 6 to 10 pm, for lunch Wednesday to Friday 11:30 am to 3 pm, and for brunch Saturday 10 am to 3 pm and Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Fully licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
