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Food Food & Drink

How to get steak

Rating: NNNNN

HEF WONDIY (1671 Bloor West, 530-1609) This fish-out-of-water space — think Tyrolean ski chalet — offers inexpensive made-to-order meals, all served on slightly sour, crepe-like injera. Best: steak tartare Kitfo in spice-spiked butter Gomen Wat, al dente collard greens and sweet green peppers goosed with ginger and garlic Ye’ Teematem, a lemon-dressed breakfast (!) salad of shredded injera, seedless tomato, raw onion and green chilies dusted with hellfire-hot mit’mit’a. Complete dinners for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of beer. Open daily noon to midnight. Fully licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

* FIVE DOORS NORTH (2088 Yonge, 480-6234) Shabby-chic Queen West style goes uptown with genuine Ital family fare. Hidden by a sign that says it’s a futon store, this relaxed resto belies appearances. Best: 10-ounce Angus steak with fried onions in creamy Gorgonzola potato gnocchi with butternut squash sauce risotto with grilled zucchini, peppers and corn meat, fish or fowl mixed grills lemon mascarpone Napoleon with fresh raspberries. Complete dinners for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or Italian beer. Open for dinner Monday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Fully licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN

LEMON MERINGUE (2390 Bloor West, 769-5757) By day an upscale patisserie and gourmet food shop, after five this room becomes a super boite with some of the best food for miles. Best: seared strip loin with smashed spuds, multi-mushroom mix and pearl onion jus Parmesan-rich ‘shroom risotto with truffle oil roasted pear, Stilton and caramelized pecans over bitter arugula. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 5 to 10 pm, for lunch Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 3 pm, and for brunch Saturday only 10 am to 3 pm. Closed Sunday, Monday and holidays. Fully licensed. Smoke-free. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

SUSHI ON BLOOR

SUSHI ON BLOOR

SUSHI ON BLOOR

(515 Bloor West, 516-3456) Modish Annex spot rolls out bargain all-inclusive meal deals. Best: steak teriyaki with steamed strips of carrot, green bean and broccoli delicately battered grease-free tempura dinners of shrimp, squash, sweet potato, broccoli and zucchini, with miso soup, sticky rice and miso-dressed iceberg lettuce salads Bronze, Silver or Gold sushi combos with all the fixin’s red-bean ice cream. Complete dinners for $25 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a bottle of Japanese beer. Open daily noon to 11 pm. Fully licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNSometimes steak can be simple. Here are some downscale approaches to glorious beef. How to get steak

without attitude

Sometimes steak can be simple. Here are some downscale approaches to glorious beef.

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