Rating: NNNN
LA CARRETA (469 Danforth, 416-461-7718) Why would anyone open a Cuban cocina on a street where Greece is the word? What should be folly proves savvy on plates where subtle Spanish strokes skyrocket into the stratosphere with heat-seeker hot sauce. Cool latin grooves — it’s a Guantanamera-free zone — and warm service make the improbable possible. South Beach Miami rocks the Danforth! Best: create a festive feast from tapas appetizers like tamal en hoja deep-fried papa rellena (tomato-salsa’d potato snowballs stuffed with shredded beef) tostones rellenos (crisp plantain baskets crammed with shrimp) meaty potato-like yucca sauced with garlic and onion mojo whole garlic-clove-studded malanga fritters mango flan always sold-out bread pudding. Complete dinners for $25 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or pint of lager. Open Monday to Friday 4 pm to 2 am, Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 2 am. Brunch Saturday and Sunday till 3 pm. Fully licensed. Access: one step to restaurant, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
