Rating: NNN
MARIKO (348 Danforth, 416-463-8231) Minimally appointed Japanese restaurant — paper lanterns, a pair of wooden booths — presents straightforward sushi, sashimi, teriyaki and tempura. Many vegetarian options, including sushi made with brown rice, man! Best: oxymoronic jumbo shrimp tempura tofu teriyaki licorice-like slivered hijiki or mixed greens over soba-noodle salads deep-fried soft-shell crab grilled salmon-skin hand roll for dessert, tofu custard over green-tea ice cream with maple syrup. Complete dinners for $25 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a bottle of Japanese beer or a glass of sake. Open for lunch Monday to Friday noon to 2:30 pm, and for dinner. Rating: NNN
