Rating: NNNNN
MATIGNON (51 St. Nicholas, south of Charles, 416-921-9226) A down-to-earth neighbourhood boite, this bistro serves hearty French fare that defies gastro trends. Check out the three-course $18.95 prix fixe dinner deal. Best: main-course fish soup with shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and salmon scented with saffron-tinged mayo, shaved Parmesan and garlic croutons mussels steamed in white wine with a bowl of crisp frites curried and pureed vegetable soup rich with cream and butter triple-tier gateau layered with chestnut mousse. Complete meals for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, for dinner Monday to Thursday 4:30 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 4:30 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Fully licensed. Access: six steps at door, washrooms upstairs. Rating: NNN
