everybody keeps their clothes on at Mary's (399 Church, at Carlton, 416-598-4544), a lunch and brunch spot kitty-corner from that temple of testosterone, Maple Leaf Gardens. At this small curbside patio, servers don't dress up in trailer-trash drag like they do at Zelda's. But here's something that Zelda can't offer: adequate, simple, diner-style eats.Modelling itself after San Francisco's famous Hamburger Mary's, this cheap and cheerful luncheonette makes very good burgers ($5.95 to $9.35) that, due to health department regulation, aren't nearly as rare as most prefer.
And, yes, the side of fries started out frozen, but they're properly cooked and worth sneaking off your date's plate. Even better, retro potato salad ($3.95 small/$5.25) features creamy spuds mixed with peas, carrot, egg, onion and non-designer mayo.
Continue a nostalgic nosh with two thick slices of Meatloaf ($7.25) served with tasty mashed potatoes, gravy and surprisingly crisp steamed veggies.
Macaroni and cheese ($7.70) swims with melted cheddar and works best with a side of potato salad rather than a sub-par Caesar ($4.50/$6.25 by itself).