Rating: NNNNN
Though other restos on this off-Yonge tourist strip do well, subterranean Matagali (69 Elm, at Bay, 416-599-9994) doesn’t get as much traffic as it should. Because of poor visibility — the Literary Device couldn’t find the place last week and she’s been here before — few discover its first-rate northern Indian and Thai specialties. A low-ceilinged room decked out with dark green vinyl banquettes and linen-covered tables, Matagali comes across cool and comfortable.At lunch, fruity Goan lamb vindaloo ($10.95) finds cubes of tender meat in hellishly hot sauce that soon subsides. Reminds me of mincemeat. The Device’s Thai basil tofu ($8.95) impresses as well with its firm bean curd, sharp basil undertow and lengths of unseeded chili. Both are served with ring-moulded of perfect basmati, salad greens in sugary vinaigrette and a basket of toasted papadam. We mop every drop from our plates with tandoor-flamed naan ($1.45). Too good to miss. stevend@nowtoronto.com