Now flying solo at Splendido, Victor Barry is also responsible for the short Sunday brunch card at wife Nikki Leigh McKean's funky Fika (28 Kensington, at Dundas West, 416-994-7669, fikacafe.ca, @fikakensington, rating: NNN). The too-cute Market café takes its name from the Swedish term for "coffee break."
As the Jackson 5's Dancing Machine gives way to Sister Sledge's We Are Family, we segue into stoneware Le Creuset mugs of endlessly refilled drip coffee ($2) and Splendido-baked cinnamon buns ($3). Splendido also supplies the Toulouse-style pork sausage and thickly sliced rustic bread that comes with the basic two-egg breakfast ($15). Barry cures the smoked organic Irish salmon and proper English muffin that accompany the perfunctory Benny ($14) as well. Both get additionally sided with crisply baked home fries and a whack of kale salad in a light sherry vinaigrette. Chef must not have received the memo about kale salad days being over.
Those same de-ribbed greens show up, appropriately enough on a wooden plank, as part of the Fika Smorgasbord ($20) alongside a coarse pork terrine and a mini Mason jar of tasty chicken pâté layered with creamy duck fat. There are halves of soft-poached runny eggs and slices of fat-streaked mortadella folded into little piles. A cube of smoky Gruyère, a two-bite wedge of Brie and a scattering of house-made quickles complete the somewhat pricey platter. Still, it's considerably less than what brunch costs at Splendido.