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*PATRIOT (131 Bloor West, 922-0025) Ex-Cafe Societa whiz kid David Chrystian re-materializes in the Colonnade with an inspired take on Canadian cuisine. Combine benchmark creativity with suave service, a sleek-chic sophisticated space, a stellar lineup of Canadian vintages and Diana Krall’s swinging supper-club jazz –alas, on CD — and get the most audacious restaurant to explode onto Toronto’s dining scene in years. And there’s a $25 three-course prix fixe! Reservations essential. Best: stuffed saddle of rabbit with lentil tourtière velvet-centred sauteed calf’s liver over broccoli puree and sunchoke-and-red-onion stew in black-mustard-seed sauce seared Arctic char with multi-mushroom and root veg ragout foie gras with sage-apple fritters in cinnamon honey other-worldly chevre cheesecake. Complete dinners for $50 per person ($30 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch 11:30 am to 3 pm and for dinner 5 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Fully licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNNN
