Rating: NNNNN
MARCELLO’S (1163 St. Clair West, at Dufferin, 416-656-6159) Substantial salads, simple yet satisfying grills, customized pasta and possibly the best pizza in town, all at shockingly reasonable prices in a room built for comfort. Best: Pizza #17, the Mimmo, a 12-inch thin-crust beauty layered with roasted garlic, Asiago, Gorgonzola, mozzarella and strands of spinach Linguine con Gamberi, butterflied and grilled shrimp in a tomato cream over noodles tossed with charred leeks and sun-dried tomatoes. Complete dinners for $30 per person ($17 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of vino. Open daily 9 am to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: short step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
ONE OF A KIND PASTA & GRILL (746 Queen West, at Niagara, 416-203-2229) This inexpensive noodle noshery offers northern Italian mains in a nearly pretty setting. Best: squid-ink Indigo linguine with grilled calamari, ham, mushrooms and snow peas in white-wine cream tri-coloured meat ravioli with peppers and onions in mild curry sautéed shrimps Newberg with buttery broccoli over basil linguine in a sherry-scented sauce. Complete meals for $30 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Saturday 2 to 11 pm, Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
