Rating: NNN
PIZZA GIGI (189 Harbord, at Bathurst, 416-535-4444) Nothing nouvelle here — old-school pizzas with not-too-thick crusts and first-rate sloppy toppings. Best: traditional superspecial pizza with pepperoni, bacon, mushrooms, green pepper and onions unashamedly retro tiki-tastic Hawaiian with pineapple chunks, ham and double mozzarella. Medium pizzas for $20, including tax and tip. Open daily 4 pm to 4 am. Eat in, take out, delivery. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
