Rating: NNN
MARSHALL’S (471 Church, at Maitland, 416-925-0341) A quirky bistro whose eccentricities eventually enamour, this 30-seat dining room offers nouvelle cuisine four-course $26 dinners in relaxed surroundings on a street where food usually means bar snacks. Best: supernal soups like velvety vichyssoise-like curried mango with lime-marinated shrimp ceviche tomato gazpacho puree with avocado cream-rich corn-and-potato chowder bosc pear salad with mesclun and honey mustard vinaigrette beef Wellington in puff pastry with asparagus spears pan-sauteed shrimp with a school of sea scallops swimming in wine mounded on garlic Yukon mash pancetta-wrapped and apple-and-spinach-stuffed pork tenderloin excellent in-house desserts like apple, banana and strawberry turnovers with Swiss almond ice cream. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($25 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 pm. Fully licensed. Access: eight steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
