Rating: NNNNN
FOCACCIA (17 Hayden, at Yonge, 416-323-0179) This unassuming boite on a back street near Bloor and Yonge belies the culinary creativity found within. Chef Sam Gassira joins the pantheon of artistes — Patriot’s David Chrystian, Sarkis’s Greg Couillard — who are shaking the foundations of Toronto’s old-guard dining scene. Throw in smooth service and alarmingly low prices and watch the foodies flock. Best: ravioli stuffed with foie gras, lobster and onion with five-spice figs duck confit salad with scallion marmalade, walnuts and taro chips potato-crusted and tea-infused smoked salmon with crab and French lentils pork tenderloin with date pesto, corn cake and creamed Swiss chard pastry-free espresso cheesecake superb house-baked breads. Complete dinners for $60 per person ($25 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 to 2:30 pm, for dinner 6 to 10 pm Tuesday to Saturday. Closed Sunday and holidays. Fully licensed. Access: one step at door, 18 steps to washrooms on second floor. Rating: NNNNN
