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Recently reviewed

Brunch

Camp

244 Jane, at Horshaw, 647-346-2267. Though Megan Whiten’s Baby Point café’s more leisurely during the week, the cozy 26-seat room’s a zoo come brunch. Deservedly so. And here’s a rarity in a restaurant: interesting art, some of it created by celebrated sculptor and Megan’s mom, Colette Whiten. Best: the Canadiana sandwich on grilled ciabatta layered with peameal, cheddar, tomato and fluffy scrambled eggs steamed Italian-style on an espresso machine those same fab eggs sided with beefy sausage and retro scalloped potatoes quiche du jour with shredded brisket, sharp Havarti and caramelized onions, house organic greens in a honey vinaigrette on the side to finish, gluten-free chocolate brownies. Complete brunches for $20 per person, including tax, tip and a steamed hot apple cider. Average main $10. Open for brunch Saturday 9 am to 4 pm, Sunday 9 am to 3 pm. Café open Monday to Friday 9 am to 4 am, dinner Friday 5 to 10 pm. Closed some holidays. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, one step to washrooms. Rating: NNNN

Contemporary

Actinolite

971 Ossington, at Hallam, 416-962-8943, actinoliterestaurant.com. If it’s worrisome foams, unorthodox tacos or autumnal tableaux fashioned from root vegetables and a few bits of bark you’re after, you’ve come to the wrong cantina. But if a comfortable candlelit room slightly off the beaten path with a reasonably priced ingredient-driven carte checks all your boxes, welcome home. Best: to start, chef Justin Cournoyer’s warm rustic bread followed by confit chicken leg with pickled onion and mustardy yogurt sauce apple salad tossed with endive, shredded cheddar, walnuts and minimal kale mains like house-made ravioli stuffed with squash and dressed with truffled tapenade and toasted pine nuts grilled Angus skirt smeared with blue cheese, sided with roasted Brussels sprouts and pomme purée steamed English pudding with Earl Grey ice cream. Complete dinners for $60 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $24. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 6 to 10 pm. Closed Sunday, Monday, holidays. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Chantecler

1320 Queen W, at Brock, 416-628-3586, restaurantchantecler.ca. Jonathan Poon and Jacob Wharton-Shukster’s cozy 26-seat trat is the most revolutionary thing to hit Parkdale since Bacchus put cheese on a roti. An inspired carte with subtle Asian tweaks, engaging service and a relaxed vibe make this one of the most exciting new restos around. And they take reservations! Best: pillowy ricotta gnudi with lasagna-like zucchini in garlicky smoked tomato sauce blood-rare bavette sided with kale sautéed in bone marrow seared wild boar in syrupy prune sauce laced with coffee Sunday and Monday nights, Korean bo-ssam-style lettuce wraps stuffed with slow-roasted Asian pork reconfigured banana splits with house-made buckwheat ice cream tossed with Froot Loops and Reese’s Pieces. Complete dinners for $60 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $22. Open Wednesday 6 to 11 pm, Thursday to Saturday 6 pm to midnight, Sunday and Monday 6 pm to 1 am. Bar nightly till close. Closed Tuesday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN

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