Contemporary
Bent
777 Dundas W, at Markham, 647-352-0092, bentrestaurant.com. Don’t come to superstar Susur Lee’s latest resto-lounge expecting salad followed by meat ‘n’ with two veg and dessert. If, however, your tastes run to inventive tapas-style dishes with a preponderance of seafood meant to be shared over exotic cocktails, have we got the boîte for you! Best: sake-cured salmon gravlax over blocks of tamago over horseradish crème fraîche showered with a julienne of toasted nori, a stack of buckwheat blinis on the side watermelon and tuna ceviche dressed with slivered chilies and lime a spin on Lee’s signature Singapore slaw, duck salad with crackling, kohlrabi and crispy taro ribbons finished with exotic sprouts and edible flowers buttery foie gras and chicken pâté with tapenade-spread brioche, ice-wine syrup and onion marmalade. Complete tapas-style dinners for $60 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average tapas $16. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 pm. Bar till close. Closed Sunday, Monday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN
Vietnamese
Pho Tien
358 Bathurst, at Dundas W, 416-603-7817. Though the room has a new name, new management and slightly improved decor (new chairs, woohoo!), the former Kim Bo across from Toronto Western still features the original kitchen team and menu, including the seven-ways Vietnamese beef wraps, a steal at $25 for two people! Best: start with thin slices of raw beef and onion quickly cooked in a hot pot of bubbling broth scented with lemongrass, then wrapped in rice paper along with a heap o’ sprouts, pickled daikon, Thai basil, mint and lettuce spicy Saigon-style sausage with crushed peanuts cubed beef with crunchy celery and carrots meatballs with threads of chewy ear fungus scoop the leftovers into a bowl of creamy porridge-like congee. Complete meals for $22 per person, including tax, tip and a domestic beer or iced sweet Vietnamese coffee. Open Monday to Thursday 10 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am to 11 pm, Sunday 11 am to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Photo by: Steven Davey
Contemporary
Chantecler
1320 Queen W, at Brock, 416-628-3586, restaurantchantecler.ca. Until they launch their $40 five-course prix fixe in February, Jonathan Poon and Jacob Wharton-Shukster’s Parkdale bistro will be offering the shareable $21 Korean ssam-style lettuce wraps they used to serve only on Sundays. Gastronomes may miss the adventure of the old carte, but newbies will appreciate the meal deal. Best: specials like purposefully soggy deep-fried calamari doused with lime juice and Thai chilies to follow, caramelized pork shoulder, slow-braised Chinese beef ribs and optional super-tender pork neck sided with Bibb lettuce, styrofoam shrimp chips, house-pickled veggies, plain rice and both hoisin and Sriracha hot sauces to finish, deconstructed banana splits with house-made buckwheat ice cream tossed with Froot Loops and Reese’s Pieces. Complete dinners for $35 per person, including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Open Wednesday 6 to 11 pm, Thursday to Saturday 6 pm to midnight, Sunday and Monday 6 pm to 1 am. Bar nightly till close. Closed Tuesday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Photo by: David Laurence
