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Recently reviewed

Contemporary

A-OK Foods

930 Queen W, at Ossington, 647-352-2243, aokfoods.ca. This way-casual spinoff of Yours Truly may pride itself on its house-made ramen noodles, but the tapas-like starters on chef Chris Jang’s witty multiculti card are the true stars. Quick, friendly service and a soundtrack of 70s disco classics make the room’s communal picnic-bench seating all the more palatable. Best: braised ox tongue on a Greek salad of shredded lettuce, radish and mint dusted with Mexican feta-like cojita cheese sous-vide pork wrapped Korean ssam-style in lettuce chicken wings in whole chili pods deep-fried ‘n’ sautéed Brussels sprouts à la Momofuku’s David Chang with pancetta, Kewpie mayo and shaved flakes numbing Sichuan-style ramen with roast pork, pickled scallion and plump goji berries. Complete meals for $30 per person, including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Average tapas $8. Open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch 11:30 am to 3 pm, dinner 5:30 to 10 pm. Closed Monday, Tuesday, holidays. Licensed. Access: nine steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN

Thai

Sabai Sabai

225 Church, at Dundas E, 647-748-4225, sabaisabaito.ca. Sukhothai’s Nuit and Jeff Regular bounce back from Khao San Road with their tastiest Thai trat yet. Just don’t come looking for nuclear meltdowns. Instead of heat for heat’s sake, chef Nuit layers her spicing to allow the subtle nuances of lime, ginger and lemongrass to steal the show. Best: at dinner, shareable tapas-style plates like crisply char-grilled chicken wings stir-fried shell-on shrimp with holy basil steamed catfish custard with coconut cream that echos pumpkin mousse skewers of tender pork loin with vinegary nam chim dip cold chicken noodle salad with toasted smoky rice powder at lunch, spicy beef soup with rice noodles and crushed peanuts old favourites like creamy Khao Soi noodles with shredded chicken breast. Complete dinners for $30 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and a mock cocktail. Average tapas $7/$12 lunch mains. Open for lunch daily 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, dinner nightly 5:30 to 11 pm. Closed some holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Vietnamese

Banh Mi Boys

392 Queen W, at Spadina, 416-363-0588, banhmiboys.com. After a short trial run, the Boys return with a much slicker operation than the original slapdash pop-up. Expanded seating and a much-improved takeout corner ensure that lines move even faster than before. Watch for a second BMB at Yonge and Gerrard in early March! Best: multi-culti Korean tacos – grilled Indian flatbread stuffed with spicy bulgogi beef, lemongrass chicken or pulled pork dressed with pickled carrot ‘n’ daikon, diced jalapeños, kimchee, house-made hoisin and Sriracha hot sauce Saigon-style subs layered with veal meatballs in tomato sauce or grilled pork belly in five-spice steamed Chinese buns thick with deep-fried tofu, pickled radish and miso sauce sweet-potato kimchee fries piled with pulled pork, scallion, pickled cabbage and eggy mayo. Complete meals for $10 per person, including tax, tip and an Orange Crush. Average main $5. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 10 pm, Saturday 11 am to 9 pm, Sunday noon to 7 pm. Closed some holidays. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN

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