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Food Food & Drink

Recently reviewed

Contemporary

Amsterdam BrewHouse 245 Queens Quay W, at Lower Simcoe, 416-504-1020, amsterdambrewhouse.com, @AmsterdamBH With it’s 350-seat patio right on the lake at Harbourfront, this cavernous warehouse should be a tourist trap. Instead, it’s a gastro-pub worthy of those of us who actually live here. An unexpectedly competent kitchen, quick service and great optics will make us return, but only when they can the annoying AM top-40 muzak they insist on inflicting on customers. Best: thin-crust pizzas dressed with house-made beerwurst sausage, roasted garlic and wild mushrooms drizzled with a syrupy stout reduction hefty house-ground brisket burgers with bacon, cheddar and beer-battered onion rings sided with sweet potato frites to finish, root beer floats with vanilla bean ice cream and deep-fried Oreo cookies. Complete dinners for $45 per person (lunches $35), including tax, tip and a house-brewed beer. Average main $18. Open Sunday to Tuesday 11 am to midnight, Wednesday and Thursday 11 am to 1 am, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 2 am. Closed some holidays. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

Me and Mine 1144 College, at Dufferin, 416-535-5858, meandmine.ca Zocalo’s Joel MacMillan and Melissa daSilva resurface at this low-key West College café. Easy on the wallet, their versatile veggie-friendly carte moves effortlessly from brunch to lunch to dinner, all spectacularly plated. Best: to start, complimentary grilled watermelon wedges dusted with sea salt and squirted with lime “cowboy” pork ‘n’ beef sausages with baked cauli-cheese, pickled cherries and green bean and wilted watercress salad minced pork ‘n’ quail egg pie with mashed root veggies and minty garden peas at brunch, house-cured pork belly with grilled scallion salad, St John Bakery toast spread with sticky tomato jam, and roasted salt ‘n’ malt vinegar home fries savoury apple, cheddar and rosemary galette. Complete meals for $30 per person, including tax, tip and a pint of local microbrew. Average main $13. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 5 pm, dinner Thursday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Weekend brunch 10 am to 5 pm. Closed Monday, holidays. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN

Seafood

Chase Fish & Oyster 10 Temperance, at Yonge, 647-348-7000, thechasetoronto.com, @thechaseTO Much more accessible than the snootier ‘n’ suit-ier Chase upstairs, this beautifully renovated ground-level space and curbside terrace in the heart of the downtown core focuses on sustainable seafood, something its all-day menu foolishly forgets to mention. Stick to the right side of it and you might get out of here without robbing a nearby bank. Best: breaded Lake Erie pickerel over caper-rich tartar sauce, radicchio slaw and dehydrated veggie chips hefty Cumbrae beef burgers dressed with PEI cheddar, pickled jalapeño and parsley aioli, perfectly executed frites on the side southern-fried chicken with house-baked cheddar buns, hot-sauce butter and savoy cabbage slaw finished with provolone for dessert, lime curd angel food cake with toasted marshmallow meringue. Complete meals for $55 per person, includng tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $25. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 1 am, Saturday 5 pm to midnight Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Closed holidays. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

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