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Food Food & Drink

Rockin’ Roncesvalles

Rating: NNNNN


BLUE BAY CAFÉ (2243 Dundas West, at Roncesvalles, 416-533-8838) This Mauritian restaurant serves spice-powered dishes that combine elements of Indian, Thai, French, Cajun and African cooking. Call it crossroads cuisine. Figure in a low-fat, low-carb lineup and extremely reasonable prices, and it’s easy to understand Blue Bay’s long-running success. Best: dense pan-sautéed hake (a cod cousin) in garlicky ginger sauce tender baby octopus tendrils in fiery curry daube of chicken, a boozy spice-rich tomato stew thick with dark chicken meat and potato Touffe Legume, mixed Asian veggies spiked with tiny red Thai chilies Mine Frire, a hot and cold collision of spaghetti-like noodles and crunchy napa cabbage. Complete meals for $25 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or an imported beer. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Fully licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

EASY (1645 Queen West, at Roncesvalles, 416-537-4893) Funky luncheonette amidst the junk shoppes of Parkdale. All-day brunch every day, soup ‘n’ sandwich combos, as well as after-5 pasta, steaks and stir-fries make this laid-back joint a hit with musicians and artists. Best: Huevos Divorciados — two eggs topped with both red and green salsas, cool refried black beans, chunky tomato-spiked guacamole, rosemary-scented home fries and toasted baguette with homemade ancho chili jam artichoke and tuna salad (hold the mayo) with nutty basil pesto on a grilled crusty Italian bun banana latte smoothies weekend brunch-only Belgian waffles. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Sunday and Tuesday to Thursday 9:30 am to 4 pm, Friday and Saturday 9:30 am to 6 pm. Closed Monday and holidays. Licensed. Barrier-free. Rating: NNN

SILVER SPOON (390 Roncesvalles, at Howard Park, 416-516-8112) Here’s a gorgeous room, smooth service and a hip martini menu — oh, and reasonably priced and skilfully executed, thoroughly modern mains. Reservations essential. Best: massive rack of pink-centred New Zealand lamb with butter-sautéed veggies and grilled-then-roasted red-jacketed potatoes thyme-scented roasted chicken ballotine in a pool of jus dotted with goat cheese specials like seared Arctic char with honeyed red pepper sauce alongside black japonica rice main-sized starter of white-wine-steamed mussels oh-my-god flourless Belgian chocolate ganache. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for dinner Tuesday to Thursday 5 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm to 11 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. Licensed. Access: one step at door. Washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNSD

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