Rating: NNNN
SPIRAL (582 Church, at Dundonald, 416-964-1102) A beautifully appointed, swanky townhouse setting offers the previously unavailable — fabulous food comes to Boystown! Best: pan-seared red snapper, steamed bamboo-shrimp dumplings and truffle oil rare tea-smoked quail with crispy bean salad yellowfin tuna carpaccio with enoki seaweed salad in pickled ginger vinaigrette. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($20 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, for dinner daily 5 to 10:30 pm, brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. Access: six steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
