KIM’S A LA CART (707 Dundas West, at Bathurst, 647-213-2279) Complete meals for $10 per person, including, tax and tip. Average main $5. Open Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, minimal outdoor seating. Rating: NNN
"That's not Korean food," snorts Dong Kim as she pan-fries an order of two-for-a-dollar kimchee dumplings at her curbside Scadding Court food stall. "That's fusion!"
Kim has invoked the dreaded F-word in response to my description of the previous evening's dinner at Swish by Han, in particular the pickled pears in stinky Stilton cheese. No one's going to confuse her skewers of fatty pork belly smeared with both teriyaki and home-made gochujang pepper sauce ($2) or crisp mung bean pancakes stuffed with cabbage ($1.75) with fine dining. Good eatin', no prob.
Better yet, pick up a 16-ounce tub of Kim's ready-to-cook sweet beef or spicy pork bulgogi ($5 and MSG-free to boot), another of crunchy cucumber kimchee ($4, all tax-inclusive) and a 99-cent head of broccoli in nearby Chinatown and create a DIY Korean spread for two for under 10 bucks that rivals the best of Bloor Street.