KAFFEEHAUS KONDITOR (1856 Queen East, at Woodbine, 416-693-7997) Complete lunch for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip, and a $5 slice of Sachertorte. Average main $6. Open Wednesday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm, Saturday 8 am to 6 pm, Sunday 8:30 am to 5 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door. Rating: NNN Rating: NNN
This pretty Viennese bakery bus tles on weekends, its eight small tables perpetually full of convivial Beach folk who all seem to know one another.
Most are enjoying a pastry with one of the six styles of coffee on offer. A display case reveals an assortment of lovely individual treats and whole tortes decorated with fresh flowers. In addition to Austrian specialties apfelstrudel, Linzer- and Sachertortes, the vast selection includes a double chocolate fudge cake called Im Himmel (I'm in heaven).
Konditor translates as "sugar baker," but the menu also has savoury lunch items: two soups, five sandwiches on Konditor's own fabulous bread, four quiches and three flecks, the Austrian version of a panzerotti.
Blaue Donau quiche ($5) contains just enough blue cheese to make it interesting, plus bacon and onion, cooked correctly so the flavours mingle nicely. The ham, Swiss and tomato fleck ($6.60), though far thinner than its Italian cousin, is entirely satisfactory. The heartiest sandwich, the Wiener schnitzel ($6.90), uses breaded chicken cutlet, while a combo of ham, pear, Swiss and Brie cheeses ($4.90) transforms a simple croissant.
The real focus is on the pastries, so we try a slice of Viennese Sachertorte ($5). It's a generous slice, not too sweet, glazed in chocolate and thinly layered with apricots.
A friendly, immaculate little spot, Konditor is a nice place to stop for a snack after a walk on the boardwalk. A word of warning: streetcar track repairs are in progress.