If the folks behind Pancho y Emiliano (200 Augusta, at Baldwin, 416-925-8454, rating: NN) - as in Villa and Zapata - had put the same effort into the design of their clever logo as most of the food that's currently coming out of their kitchen, the month-old Mexican take-away would have us dancing in the street.
Not that there's anything intrinsically wrong with the fish taco ($5.75) - crisply deep-fried turbot topped with coleslaw and what tastes like chipotle-spiked ranch dressing - except that instead of serving it on two smaller corn or flour tortillas like the rest of the taco lineup, it comes stuffed into one large 8-inch wrap like a mutant falafel.
While no match for Big Fat up the street, the 18-ounce California-style steak burrito (all $6.25) makes an easy no-mess lunch in the park. And there's no question that the optics from the counter in the front window are some of the best in the Market. Why, in just one five-minute time frame, we note the bird lady on her bike, a couple of Goofs and Olivia Newton Chow strolling past. Separately, of course.
But then there's bland steamed tamales in banana leaves (all $4), anemic Aztec tomato soup finished with mozzarella-like Oaxaca cheese ($4.75) and soggy enchiladas ($6.75) - nothing a good shot of hot sauce couldn't help.