Rating: NNNN
tavola CALDA (671 College, at Bathurst, 416-536-8328) A bit bright, this comfortable room will never be in fashion, but its fabulous no-frills food outlasts trends. Best: multi-tiered eggplant parmigiana veal osso bucco with rustic tomato topping over Arborio rice ricotta-stuffed ravioli paprika-pink potato or minty beet salad ethereal budan de pan (bread pudding). Complete meals for $20 per person ($12 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 10 pm. Fully licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN SD