Rating: NNNNN
JEAN’S FINE FOODS CATERING (2326 Danforth, 416-422-0617) The couple responsible for two of Toronto’s pioneering Thai-Malay restaurants, Rasa Sayang and Sawasdee, return with this low-key take-away featuring the street foods of Singapore. Fear not, pyrophobes. Unless they’re fired with hot sauce, most dishes come moderately spiced. Best: Mee Goreng — saucy and slightly curried udon noodles mixed with shredded shrimp and chicken deep-fried bean curd with chewy black Chinese mushrooms, broccoli and red pepper vegetarian spring rolls stuffed with carrot, cabbage, glass noodles and split yellow peas dunked in garlicky honey dip deep-fried tofu with galangal-goosed peanut sauce spice-tacular homemade hot sauce bottled in-house curry paste and powder. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Closed Monday and holidays. Unlicensed. Smoke-free. Access: bump at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
MATAHARI (39 Baldwin, 416-596-2832) The only exclusively Malaysian spot in town, this five-year-old bistro serves first-rate dishes that mix Malay, Thai, Indian and Chinese flavours. But unless you specify otherwise, your meal will be as under-spiced as Geri Halliwell’s solo career. Best: Casbah cashew chicken with peppers, onions, nuts and ‘shrooms with tart tamarind bite Sambal with garlicky grilled shrimp, crunchy green beans and shallots achar-achar, the doubly named appetizer of lightly pickled veggies and pineapple dwarf bananas sauteed in rum and Kahlua. Complete dinners for $35 per person ($17 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or bottle of beer. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday noon to 2:30 pm, and for dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Closed Monday. Fully licensed. Access: steep ramp at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
SALAD KING (335 Yonge, 416-971-7041) How hot is it? This cafeteria-style Thai fast-foodery offers deceptively mellow Thai fare that packs a long-lingering afterburn. What they call medium-strength will cause unsuspecting diners to break out in a sweat — for days. It’s so popular, regulars know to make reservations. Best: cashew chicken with sweet peppers and steamed rice crisply fried sweet-and-sour orange chicken Thai basil noodles with shredded egg, dried shrimp and al dente veggies such vegetarian fare as deep-fried tofu in a mild Thai spice blend, Evil Jungle Prince (Asian veg in garlic-chili sauce) and fiery mango salad with crushed peanut topping. Complete dinners for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and a bottle of imported Thai beer. Open Monday to Friday 10:30 am to 9:30 pm, Saturday 11 am to 8 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Beer licence. Smoke-free daily noon to 2 pm and 5 to 7 pm. Daily 10-per-cent student discount 2 to 5 pm. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
