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Brunch
Naco Gallery Cafe
1665 Dundas W, at Margueretta, 647-347-6499, nacogallery.com. Though it doesn’t serve food the rest of the week, come Saturday and Sunday this Latin-accented coffeehouse slash alterna-queer music venue offers one of the best brunches on the west side. Better not be in a hurry, since chef Nathan Gawalko – formerly of Atlantic and La Palette – cooks everything on a two-burner hot plate. Best: the house torta, a gargantuan breakfast sandwich stacked with slow-roasted pork belly, crackling, avocado, coleslaw and a runny egg grilled asparagus in mole sauce over fresh tortillas dressed with vegan refried beans, oyster mushrooms, pickled red onion, raw radish, jalapeño and yogurt drizzle beef brisket enchiladas stuffed with chipotle-braised beef brisket in smoky grilled tomato and guajillo pepper sauce. Complete brunches for $18 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Average main $10. Open for brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Coffee weekdays from 9 am, bar nightly till close. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Chicken
Inigo
927 Queen W, at Strachan, 416-645-6707, inigofood.ca. Operating out of notorious bicycle thief Igor Kenk’s former headquarters, ex-Torito chef Carlos Hernandez forgoes tapas for Portuguese-style churrasqueira roast chicken. No days-old rubbery rotisserie birds these! Instead, find plump free-range, naturally raised, grain-fed birds paired with gourmet low-sodium sides. Best: remarkably moist whole, halved or quartered chickens ready to take home or eat in beef cheeks and seasonal root veggie stew mains like venison meat loaf finished with apples and currants sweet Moroccan lamb shank with chickpeas and dried apricots vegan ratatouille with grilled Japanese eggplant, roasted tomato and zucchini over buttery brown basmati rice sides of eggy Spanish tortillas lightly dressed salads of squash with Puy lentils al dente green beans and mini-potatoes à la niçoise. Complete dinners for $15 per person (lunches $10), including tax and tip. Average main $7. Open Tuesday to Saturday noon to 8:30 pm, Sunday noon to 6 pm. Closed Monday, some holidays. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
French
Le Canard Mort
896 Queen E, at Logan, 416-625-2653, lecanardmort.ca. Sister to Le Rossignol, this Leslieville gastropub plays it safe – a mostly rustic French card, well-trained service, and prices that make dinner out Tuesday the sensible thing to do. Microbrews and cocktails galore, kid-friendly and weekend brunch, too? Take that, Joy Bistro and Lady Marmalade! Best: crisply deep-fried sweetbreads splashed with hot sauce and dipped in blue cheese aioli à la Buffalo chicken wings retro escargots vol-au-vents Perth County pork chops with caramelized shallots, al dente green beans and Dijon mashed potatoes lobster pot pie thick with baby veg in béchamel mac & cheese finished with freshly shaved truffle. Complete dinners for $45 per person, including tax, tip and a beer cocktail. Average main $18. Open Monday and Tuesday 5 pm to midnight, Wednesday and Thursday 11 am to midnight, Friday 11 am to 2 am, Saturday 10 am to midnight, Sunday 10 am to 10 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday till 3 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
