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Food Food & Drink

Vicki’z Veggiez

Though she’s located a couple of doors down from Sneaky Dee’s, Vicki’z (421 College, at Bathurst, 647-344-3305 Rating: NNN) isn’t interested in the late-night party crowd.

Instead, her two-month-old vegetarian café caters to a health-conscious clientele looking for wallet-friendly alternatives to hamburgers and nachos. But because most do takeout, few get to experience Vicki at her best.

In lieu of a no-doubt recyclable polystyrene box, eat-in customers get her “famous” fava bean dip (aka foul, $6) in tall glass bowls dressed with chopped ripe tomato and a drizzle of garlicky tahini alongside grilled pita wedges on the same white rectangular plates that Susur Lee uses. However, her “traditional” falafel ($6.50) wrapped in nontraditional whole wheat tortillas deserves a better side than crappy frozen french fries. Far better to go with the crinkly sweet potato fries that come with the grilled halloumi and sauerkraut sandwich on multigrain ($8.50).

That flaming Greek cheese also shows up on Vicki’z Pro Bowl ($10.50), an impressive heap of fettucini tossed with roasted peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil. Sadly, a liver-cleansing tonic of beetroot and grapefruit juice ($4) is just too vile to finish even if it does come in a cute Mason jar with a bendy straw.

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