French toast is one of the big hits on Voodoo Child’s streamlined brunch card.
VOODOO CHILD (388 College, at Borden, 647-748-1011, voodoochild.ca) Rating: NNNN
It's not a good sign when the chef - in this case, Aidan Pascoe of the brilliant but short-lived Liberty Belle Bistro - announces that Sunday brunch will be delayed a bit because he's run out of bread.
Luckily, Voodoo Child (388 College, at Borden, 647-748-1011, voodoochild.ca, Rating: NNNN) is located at the top of the Market, so he's back in a flash. Soon we're tucking into house-baked muffins stuffed with cream cheese ($3) alongside Te Aro lattes ($3.75) artfully pulled by ex-Bulldog barista Bruce Ly. From the very streamlined card - Pascoe cooks everything on a four-burner stove in dire need of an exhaust hood - we start with herbed baguette piled with truffled 'n' scrambled free-range eggs, a white Sanagan's breakfast banger and deliciously dilled potato salad on the side.
Thick slices of challah French toast comes two ways, either sweet with caramelized banana and nutella or layered with sweetly pulled Mennonite pork and maple hollandaise (all $12.50), the latter additionally sided with a very good arugula salad tossed with walnuts and strips of apple in fruity vinaigrette that some may remember from the Liberty Belle.
Service reflects the general lackadaisical vibe but, hey, it's 11 o'clock in the morning.