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Food Food & Drink

Weekend eating: April 16-17

SATURDAY

Diverso by Ferraro

328 Dupont, at Spadina, 416-929-3388, diversobyferraro.com.

Sister of Eglinton West’s Ferraro 502, this mid-range Annex trat checks all the boxes: cozy subterranean grotto (whitewashed walls, slate floors, a cappuccino bar upfront), welcoming servers who make you feel just like family, and an exceptionally competent kitchen. Great pizza, too!

Best: from the chalkboard specials, start with grilled à point calamari in lemony caper sauce over organic greens dressed with house-made balsamic vinegar generously portioned pasta di giorno, fettuccine tossed with pesto, snap peas and a six-pack of butterflied shrimp secondi like capon breast overstuffed with wild rice, sun-dried tomato and goat cheese in rosemary cream over mashed potatoes, or veal chops in a red wine reduction with very good frites, both sided with roasted parsnip and carrot thin-crusted pizzas dressed à la canadese with mozzarella, pepperoni and green pepper to finish, definitive tiramisu.

Complete lunches for $22 per person (dinners $40), including tax, tip and a glass of vino. Average main $10/$17. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN

Leslie Jones

1182 Queen E, at Rushbrooke, 416-463-5663.

George Wensley’s offbeat Leslieville eatery is a microcosm of cool: a gallery-style brick-walled storefront, an unusually inventive card – Wensley’s worked with Greg Couillard and Restaurant Makeover’s David Adjey – and a 60s stereo spinning vinyl. Come summer, Jones’s idyllic backyard patio is one of the loveliest al fresco scenes on the east side.

Best: to start, organic greens layered with Roquefort, toasted pine nuts and roasted beets in lemon yogurt dressing comfort mains like slow-roasted pulled pork tenderloin sided with paprika-dusted roasted potatoes and garlicky sautéed rapini orzo topped with tiger shrimp, scallops and mussels in chunky tomato sauce splashed with herb-infused olive oil spaghetti tossed with grilled chicken, artichoke hearts and Asiago thin-crust pizzas topped with Kristapsons smoked salmon, goat cheese, fresh dill, capers and scallions.

Complete dinners for $50 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $18. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10 pm. Licensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, but small washrooms. Rating: NNN

Torito

276 Augusta, at College, 416-961-7373, toritorestaurant.com.

With owners whose CVs include respected names like Latitude and Xango, is it any wonder that this informal Kensington Market tapas bar is packed to the rafters every night? An intoxicating Iberian card of truly shareable plates, mood lighting and engaging servers add up to one of downtown’s most romantic evenings.

Best: merguez sausage over wild mushrooms ‘n’ lentils chewy Chilean tripe stew with chickpeas and Manchego cheese smoked trout over new potatoes daubed with creamy avocado mayo beef tongue ‘n’ cheeks slow-braised in cookbook-correct mirepoix pomegranate-glazed quail over sweet calabaza pumpkin mash grilled shrimp al ajillo drenched in butter and garlic to finish, fresh figs drizzled in honey with blue Benedictin cheese to drink, glasses of Jerez (hair-eth), a sherry-like fortified Spanish wine that varies from muy dry to cough-syrup sweet.

Complete dinners for $50 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average tapa $10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm, bar till close. No reservations. Licensed. Access: five steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNz

SUNDAY

C5

100 Queen’s Pk, at Bloor, 416-586-7928, rom.on.ca.

Located at the pinnacle of the ROM’s new Crystal addition, this swanky supperclub spotlights chef Teddy Corrado’s snout-to-tail carte as well as fabulous rooftop views facing the downtown skyline and points west. If you’re looking for a spot to impress out-of-towners, this be the place. Bonus: a separate five-course bacon menu!

Best: to start, baskets of house-baked scones, croissants and pain au chocolates charcuterie platter over-the-top mains like lobster omelettes on house-baked English muffins garnished with pork loin peameal bacon, Gruyère and wilted rapini, sided with cucumber celery slaw fluffy pancakes stuffed with cherry-wood-smoked bacon and finished with peach compote, candied walnuts, maple chantilly and foie gras torchons to finish, sticky toffee pudding with cognac prune purée and blue cheese ice cream.

Complete brunches for $55 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $20. Open for brunch Sunday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: Barrier-free. Rating: NNNN

June Harlowe Foods

1627 Dupont, at Dundas W, 416-848-1984, juneharlowefoods.ca.

This laid-back upper Junction Triangle café-slash-catering-outfit might be a bit out of the way for most, but for those who live in this brunch-starved nabe it’s a godsend.

Best: grilled peameal bacon eggs Benny in light, lemony hollandaise sided with both fruit and Caesar salads the Country Cottage breakfast, two fried or scrambled eggs paired with fried tomatoes, peppery home fries and multigrain toast house burgers dressed with Brie and avocado and sided with freshly cut fries.

Complete brunches for $20, including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Average main $11. Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Rating: NNN

Melanie’s

1870 Danforth, at Albright, 416-422-1870, melaniesbistro.ca.

Full houses every Saturday and Sunday morning attest that there’s nothing like this pleasant kid-friendly storefront café for miles. Shame the cruise-ship/hotel-buffet-quality grub – anchovy-free Caesar salads, wimpy salsas, frozen French fries – doesn’t match the welcoming and attentive service.

Best: pan-fried Newfie-style potato ‘n’ cod cakes paired with poached eggs in dilled hollandaise, scoops of grilled home fries, fruit salad and multigrain toast sweet potato frites candied pecan- and cornflake-crusted French toast with caramelized peaches and crème anglaise to finish house-baked cheesecake.

Complete brunches for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $12. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

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